Shavings Review.

If you watch my vlog’s on my You Tube channel you will know that recently I have not been able to get hold of my favourite type of shavings for the horses’ stables – Snowflake.  This means that I have tried a few different ones since Christmas and thought that I would do  a review of all the ones I have tried.

I like snowflake shavings because they are not dusty and are soft and look clean.  I realise this last point is probably a bit daft but I like the horses beds to look clean.  According to their website they are also ‘highly absorbent but remain dry on the top’.  

The first ones I tried were Littlemax – these aren’t dusty but they had quite a strong smell (of pine). I also  found the bits were a bit hard and some of them sharp.  I worried that when lying down one of the horses could get one of these sharp (some bits were like sticks) in their eye and cause real damage!

  

I also tried Bedmax, made by the same company – the bits in these are bigger and just as hard and sharp as the Littlemax. These are also dust free and ‘hygienic’.  However,  I found that both these and the Littlemax weren’t very absorbent and the urine was leaking out of the stables much more than usual!  I found skipping out difficult with these bigger ‘bits’ and it took much longer to do the stables each day.

 

According to their website the pine has antibacterial properties which is, of course, a good thing.

 When I told the people at my local tack shop about the absorbency problem they suggested putting Megasorb underneath.  This, as the name suggests, is very absorbent and is also dust free.  According to their product information the wood fibre pulp is sterilised up to 500 degrees which kills mould, spores and bacteria – so great for horses suffering from respiratory problems.  I tried these on the bottom of Chesney’s stable and they definitely absorbed all the urine.  However, they did not look very clean or very soft or warm.

 

The last ones I tried were Safemix, these are now my second choice.  They were soft and clean looking and fairly absorbent.  Again, dust extracted they made a good bed but I still favour the Snowflake, probably because the bits are slightly bigger (but nowhere near as big as Bedmax) and so slightly easier to rearrange after skipping out.  

Bedding and shavings for horses is such a personal thing, we all have our favourites for different reasons – what type of bedding do you use?

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Jo

All About... Botulism.

What is Botulism?

It is a deadly disease which is caused by toxins produced by Clostridium botulinum – a bacteria.  This toxin is very potent and impairs nerve function causing paralysis.  This includes the nerves of the diaphragm which will mean the horse will stop breathing and therefore will die. Clostridium botulinum is a spore forming bacterium and is found in soil, river and lake sediment and in the intestines of fish and mammals.  The incidence of botulism in horses is low, especially in the UK, however, the mortality rate is high. Once the toxin enters the body it will reach the  bloodstream and be distributed to nerves all over the body it will then prevent muscles contracting – leading to paralysis.  This happens rapidly, taking 1 to 2 days to cause death.

Signs

• Weakness 
• Trembling 
• Dilated pupils 
• Standing with all 4 feet close together 
• Lying down 
• Difficulty in swallowing 
• Drooling 
• Nasal discharge either green or milky 
• Decreased muscle tone 
• Botulism hits suddenly.

Causes

There are 3 ways for a horse to get botulism:

• Consuming forage or feed which contains the bacteria.  When the food reaches the intestines the bacteria will produce the toxin. 
• Consuming the feed or forage which already contains the toxins. 
• Through a wound which becomes contaminated with the bacteria eg: puncture wounds.  The wound will close thus providing an ideal environment for the bacteria to produce toxins.

If hay has been baled with a high moisture content it is more likely to become spoiled and therefore contaminated.  Silage should not be fed to horses because of  the moisture content providing ideal conditions for the spores to form (cattle do not develop the disease as easily).  Also, eating hay that has spilled on the floor and mixed with soil and faeces will increase the risk.  If a dead animal or bird is accidentally baled in the hay then the body will provide an excellent place for the botulism toxins to be produced.  

Diagnosis

The vet will use the clinical signs, history and observation to diagnose.  It is often the case that several horses will be affected if they have access to the same contaminated feed or forage.  Blood tests are often normal.

Treatment

Adult horses are sometimes able to cope due to the ‘good bacteria’ in the intestines.  However, it is often too late for treatment and prevention is better.  There is an antitoxin available which will help in the early stages.  Euthanasia is often the kindest choice.

Prevention

Do not feed silage to horses.  Hay with damp or rotten areas should not be fed and haylage must be fed within the recommended date.  

Botulism is a horrible disease so it is vital that food is sourced from reputable companies and stored carefully.  Forage should be produced and stored to reduce the chance of providing conditions which the bacteria thrive in!

 

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Jo

Photo Day

We are enjoying the sunnier days - can't wait for the mud to go now!!!

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Jo

Dartmoor Ponies

These are such lovely looking ponies, I always wanted one when I started riding!

Dartmoor ponies have lived on the moors in Devon for thousands of years.  The moors are rugged, bleak and windswept and mostly over 1000 feet high.  The ponies, as you would expect, are tough, hardy and enduring. 


History

Dartmoor ponies were used in medieval times for carrying tin from the mines.  Later they were used for pulling carts, carrying loads and for milk or post deliveries.  When the ponies were crossed with Shetland ponies they produced really strong ponies suitable for working in the coal mines. 

At the end of the 19th century Dartmoor ponies were finally recognised as a native breed.  In 1899 the National Pony Society created a Dartmoor section and this meant that the breed standard has remained relatively unaltered.  At the beginning of the 20th century some Arab and some Welsh blood was introduced.  During the World Wars numbers plummeted, after that time the ponies were inspected and registered and numbers increased.  In the 1950's there were about 30,000 ponies on the moor.  However, now there are only about 3000 - 5000.

The Dartmoor ponies are not wild animals as they all have owners.  Farms have the 'right to graze' on particular areas and the farmers brand their ponies.  The ponies live out all year round mostly in small herds of mares with one stallion and some young ponies.  Late in September or early October the farmers round up the ponies using horses, quad bikes or on foot.  The ponies are separated according to their owners and the ponies are all checked over and any treatment is given.  Old or sick ponies are separated as are any to be sold, before the others are returned to the moor.

Dartmoor ponies are now seen in the USA, Europe, New Zealand and Australia.  They are often crossed with other breeds to create riding ponies.

Characteristics

 

Height: 11.1hh - 12.2hh

Colour:  Black, Bay or Brown and sometimes Grey, Chestnut or Roan.  Few white markings as part of the breed.

Conformation:  Fine and pretty heads with large intelligent eyes but small pricked ears.  The neck is set high and they have a good front with sloping shoulders.  The body is short and compact with a deep rib cage.  Dartmoor ponies have strong quarters and a well set tail.  The legs are strong with short cannon bones  and hard feet.  These ponies have full and flowing mane and tails.  

Temperament:  They have excellent temperaments and are sensible, alert and kind.  Dartmoor ponies are reliable, gentle and calm. 

Dartmoor ponies are ideal first ponies for children and are great for hacking and jumping.  They are sure footed and have a relatively high head carriage which both help children to feel secure.  They are good looking ponies and are great for dressage, driving and hunting too.

Aren't they gorgeous!

The Dartmoor Pony Society Website:  http://www.dartmoorponysociety.com

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Jo

All About ... Bone Spavins.

What is a Bone Spavin?

This is a bony growth (unlike the soft swelling of a bog spavin) on the lower side of the hock.  It is another name for osteoarthritis of the lower hock joints and unfortunately, it often affects both legs.  It can also be the final stage of degenerative joint disease.  It is usually seen in older horses but can occur in younger horses too.

Signs

• Initially occasional lameness 
• Stiffness when walking downhill 
• Over time lameness will increase and may be in both hind legs 
• Bony swelling on hock, usually on the inner side. 
• The affected leg will usually have a shorter stride and will not be lifted as high as is normal 
• One shoe/foot is worn down more quickly (the affected leg)

Causes

If the cartilage between bones is compressed over a period of time it can be eroded, this in turn will cause new bone to be laid down.  This can be due to conformational faults putting uneven pressure on the hock joint such as a horse with sickle or cow hocks.   Alternatively, poor trimming of the hoof or poor shoeing can affect the movement of the joint and cause uneven pressure.  Trauma is also a possible cause of bone spavins.  

In a similar way to bog spavins sudden turns or stops can cause uneven pressure as can sports which require more than usual flexion of or concussion to the hock eg: dressage or jumping.

Diagnosis

A vet will use a flexion test to make an initial diagnosis.  This can then be confirmed by x-ray or using scintigraphy or nerve blocking.

 

Treatment

The bony changes cannot be reversed but the worsening of the spavin can be slowed.  The pain can be eased and lameness controlled and surgery is an option.  Anti-inflammatory drugs can be given to ease the lameness and pain. Supportive shoeing can also help with the management of a bone spavin, rolling the toes on the shoes will reduce the height to which the horse needs to lift his leg.  Heel support can also help but a knowledgeable farrier should be consulted to work with the vet.

Gentle exercise will be beneficial, limiting the pressure placed on the hock.  Complementary therapies such as acupuncture have been seen to help in some cases.

Prevention

Conformational faults can be supported with correct shoeing.  In any case using a knowledgeable and experienced farrier is essential to ensure that foot balance is maintained.  Taking a horse’s conformation into account when assessing their suitability for a particular sport will also help.  

Bone Spavin’s do not improve but can be managed.  Some horses’ respond better than others to treatments and you should always consult your vet for the best course of action for your horse.

Have you seen this week's video 'February vlog'  on my You Tube channel.   
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You can also follow me on Facebook and Instagram for updates on Chesney, Basil, Tommy and Daisy.

Until next time!

Jo