Friday, 13 March 2015

All About ..... Bandages



Following on from last weeks blog 'All About Boots' this week I am going to talk about bandages.  Leg bandages are definitely used less now than in the past because of the fabulous new boots available.  However, some people still use them regularly and when applied correctly they still have a place.


In addition to their use for injuries, bandages can be used for warmth, protection and support.  Bandages can be used for support and protection during exercise, protection whilst travelling and warmth in the stable.


Travel/Stable Bandages.
These are similar and are made of wool or man-made fibre, they are usually 4 to 5 inches (10-12.5cm) wide and about 7 feet (2.13m) long.  These bandages should not be elasticated as these can become tight and cause ligament or circulatory issues.  


Travel/stable bandages have padding under the bandage to provide extra protection, warmth and comfort.  This is usually either Gamgee (which is a sheet of cotton-wool with gauze on either side) or Fybagee which is stronger and thicker but more difficult to work with!


Fybagee

Fybagee comes in pre-cut sections and can also be bought with knee or hock protection. 
When bandaging for travel it is important that the coronet and heel are covered with the padding for protection when going up and down the ramp but also for when the horse is trying to balance.  Stable bandages need to allow the horse to move around more and allow for the bedding so do not quite cover the heel.  

To put on a travel or stable bandage:

  • Tie the horse or ask an assistant to hold him. 
  • Ensure the leg is clean and dry. 
  • Pat the horse and slide your hand down his leg so that he is aware of you! 
  •  Wrap the Gamgee or Fybagee around the leg from front to back.   Ensure the edge or overlap are on the outside of the leg (not on the front or back as this can cause a pressure point).  The padding should come up over the knee and down over the coronet. 
  • Place the bandage at an angle against the leg, with the roll on top, near to the knee or hock.  You want a flap to fold down to secure the top.  The bandage should be wrapped from front to back. 
  • Flat side down you wrap around the leg firmly but not tightly, once you have gone around once you fold down the flap.  Continue bandaging overlapping between 1/2 and 3/4 of bandage.  
  • Ensure there are no wrinkles and you keep an even pressure.  
  • When you reach the bottom slightly angle the last turn down and first turn up so that you get a 'v' shape across the front of the foot. 
  • Continue back up the leg in the same way, the tapes or Velcro hopefully will end up at the outer side of the horse's leg. 
  • Velcro fastenings are good because it is much easier to have an even tension when fastening them.  The tapes are more tricky, these need to be the same pressure as the bandage and should be done up on either the inside or outside of the leg (outside is easier) NOT the front or back as this creates a pressure point.  Tapes should be tied in a bow and the ends tucked under the rest of the tape.  You can then fold the last bandage loop down to cover. 
  • To check the tension is right you should be able to fit a finger down the inside of the padding, snugly.  Bandages that are too tight will impair circulation but if too loose the bandage may come loose and slip down which the horse can then fall over!


To remove a travel or stable bandage:

  • Undo the fastenings. 
  • Quickly and efficiently pass from hand to hand as you roll around the leg.  Do not worry about rolling neatly as this will take time.  Give the leg a little massage to encourage circulation and then roll the bandage up for its next use.



Exercise Bandages (Stage III)

These bandages are not included until the BHS Stage III exam but I wanted to include them here to demonstrate the differences.  These bandages are primarily for support for the tendons and ligaments during work.  They are made from a cotton and elastic mix and are usually about 4 inches (10 cm) wide.  Exercise bandages, like the other bandages can be fastened with tapes or Velcro, however, they are usually also stitched or taped for extra security.  If a bandage became loose during work the horse could have a serious fall!


As with travel/stable bandages, exercise bandages are applied over Gamgee or Fybagee for extra padding and to make the bandages more comfortable.

Putting on Exercise Bandages:


  • The padding must be the correct size, it should fit between the knee and top of the fetlock, and just overlap. 
  • Tie the horse up or have an assistant hold the horse. 
  • As before, pat the horse and gently slide your hand down the leg so that the horse knows where you are. 
  • Wrap the padding around the leg, front to back, with the overlap on the outside.  Make sure the edge of the padding is not on the front or back of the leg as this will cause a pressure point. 
  • Place the bandage just below the knee, you should have a small strip of padding showing. 
  • As with the other bandages you want a small flap to turn down, so start with the bandage at an angle and firmly (not tightly) wrap the bandage around once before folding down the flap and continuing. 
  • The bandage should be wrapped from front to back. 
  • Overlap about 2/3 of the bandage as you wrap down the leg.  Ensure there are no wrinkles and that the tension is uniform. 
  • Bandage down until you reach the ergot, the last turn should be slightly angled down and the first turn up slightly angled up to create the 'v' again. 
  • Continue to wrap back up the leg until the end of the bandage is reached.  Secure the Velcro or tie the tapes with the same tension as the bandage was wrapped.  Secure them on the outside of the leg and again turn the top of the bandage to cover the tapes. 
  • For general schooling this fastening may be adequate, but for cross country then extra security should be used.  Tape or stitching the bandage is a good way to ensure the bandage won't come undone on the way around the course. 
  • Check the tightness of the bandage.  You should be able to fit one finger snugly down the inside. 
  • To tape the bandage use insulation tape and wrap 3 strands around the leg (ensuring you use the same tension as the bandage) near the top, the middle and near the bottom.  Spacing them equally will make them look more professional and neater. 
  • If stitching, stitch the loose end to the rest of the bandage being careful not to put the needle in the leg.  Then use a relatively large cross stitch down the outside of the bandage, from top to bottom.  You will probably have between 4 and 6 crosses depending on the size of the horse!

To remove an exercise bandage:
  • If the bandage is taped or stitched you will need to firstly cut the stitches or cut the tape.  This is where bigger stitches make it easier! 
  • Undo the tapes or Velcro and pass the bandage from hand to hand, unwrapping quickly and efficiently (you can roll it up later). 



Tail Bandages


These are used for protection when travelling as some horses can rub their tail on the ramp when in a trailer, or the side when in a box.  They are also useful to help shape and tidy a horse's tail after grooming or washing.  Sometimes tail bandages are used to keep a horse's tail up out of the way for an activity such as Polo or Cross-country!  They can be slightly elasticated.


Putting on a tail bandage:

  • Ensure the horse is tied up or held by an assistant.  If it is known to kick then it may be better to avoid bandaging the tail! 
  • Before you start check the bandage has been rolled correctly with the fastening on the inside. 
  • Pat the horse on the shoulder and then move your hand along his back as you walk towards his tail, talk to him too.  This will ensure he is aware where you are at all times and will be less likely to jump or kick out. 
  • As you reach the tail grasp it gently.  Move around so that you are standing squarely behind the horse.  
  • Place a section of bandage across the horses hindquarters (this will be your flap) with the roll on top. 
  • Lift the tail with one hand and roll the bandage under the dock (close to the top) and pass the bandage into your other hand.  This is the tricky bit! 
  • You need to roll around the tail twice before folding the flap down to secure it. 
  • As with a leg bandage ensure the pressure is uniform and continue to bandage down (overlapping by just over half) until it is just above the end of the dock (Coccygeal Vertebrae). 
  • Now begin bandaging back up the tail until you reach the end.  If the fastenings are tapes then wrap these around the tail with the same tightness as the bandage.  Secure with a bow, fold the last loop of bandage down to cover.  The tapes can be fastened at the side or back.  Side fastenings are sometimes better if the horse does rub his tail whilst travelling. 
  • You will need to take a hold of the horse's tail and slightly bend it to the shape of the horse's rump! 
  • The bandage must not be left on for too long (maximum of 4 hours), it must not be applied when wet as it may shrink as it dries - which will be too tight. 

To remove a tail bandage:

  • Undo the tapes and grasp the bandage, it can then be pulled down and over the end of the tail. 
  • Alternatively, it can be undone in the same way as a leg bandage.

To roll a bandage:

  • Any type of bandage should be rolled in the same way, so you will always know how to apply it. 
  • Don't forget to wash them if they are muddy or dirty and ensure they are fully dry before rolling. 
  • Do up the Velcro or wrap the tapes into a flat loops.  Then continue to roll the bandage the same way, with the fastening on the inside.  Keep the tension uniform so that the bandage is easier to apply next time.  Sometimes it is easier to roll it down your leg to help with the tension!


Bandaging for Injuries 

This generally involves applying bandages to more difficult parts of the horse, sometimes the hock, knee or elbow.  These types of bandage are more tricky and are difficult to describe with words.  The principles remain the same however.
 
  • Ensure they are not too tight. 
  • Ensure the tension is uniform. 
  • Secure them well. 
  • The bandage should be wrapped from front to back.

Bandaging takes practice, those that bandage everyday are very quick, very neat and very efficient.  Look out for future  'How to...' videos on my You Tube channel.
 
This weeks video 'How to .... worm a horse with a syringe' is up. Horse Life and Love.
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You can also follow me on Facebook and Instagram for updates on Chesney, Basil, Fidget and Daisy.

Until next time!
Jo

Thursday, 12 March 2015

Schooling Motivation


As you will know if you read my blogs regularly I am setting monthly aims at the moment to give me some motivation.  These are also helping me track our progress - which is definitely a good thing too.  So over the last month we have been doing some new exercises in the school.  Trying to keep my interest but also keep things a bit varied for Basil, which he seems to like.  He is still sometimes a bit jumpy when we first go into the arena so we tend to walk around and do circles until he calms down on those days (asking more makes him more jumpy and stressed!) 


 Looking very uninterested for our lunging session!

Since my last blog about 'Does schooling have to be boring?' back on the 19th February I have been trying the exercises below - with varying degrees of success!

Again, please excuse the drawings! 


The 10m half circle exercise we manage to do in walk but really struggle in trot, Basil is not really balanced enough yet and tends to go a bit fast - but we will get there.


This is one of our successful exercises in both walk and trot, Basil has really grasped this and performs it really nicely.  Next stage is leg yield away from the track! 



This is another exercise we are managing to do well in walk, we gradually reduce the size of the circle before leg yielding back out again onto a larger circle!  Trot is something which will take time as we improve our balance and steady our trot more.



I have had to alter this exercise because our trot to walk transitions are still not quick enough.  We just about manage to trot the long sides and walk the short sides although this is not always very accurate too for the downwards transition!  We will continue practising until we can do this exercise as it is above!

I do feel we are making progress but am wondering if I need to change Basil's bit to something a little stronger.  However, I really want to try to improve our downwards transitions with half halts and my seat and balance if I can!  He is more responsive to this on hacks so I am sure that with time this will transfer to the school too.

Have you seen yesterdays 'How to ...' vlog about worming a horse with a syringe? 
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You can also follow me on Facebook and Instagram for updates on Chesney, Basil, Fidget and Daisy.

Until next time!
Jo

Tuesday, 10 March 2015

TubTrugs Flexible Review - my new feed bowls!



In January I treated the horses to some new food bowls.  Their previous ones were black rubber skips and were quite old. They were getting difficult to clean properly as the rubber was getting rough.  I have had a few of these over the years as they are really tough (I think they are made out of old tyres) however, I don't see them about anymore.  Chesney has always been a bit rough with his food bowls; he stands on them, kicks them about, picks them up and throws them ... so tough was important!


However, I have to admit that the bright coloured food bowls available have turned my head in the shop a few times recently.  They are so much more cheerful than the dull old black ones.  So I thought that it was about time I replaced them.  I was very excited to find there were the colours I wanted in the shop - my horses have their own colours (is that weird?) - Chesney has red, Basil has blue and Fidget has green!

They were cheaper than the black ones used to be but I'm not sure if they will last as long. We will see .....

Their website says that they are:
·         100% food-grade plastic
·         Flexible yet very, very strong
·         Frost and UV resistant
·         Totally Phalate free

As I want to use them for food that is good, also, as I said earlier they need to be very, very strong - so far so good.  I like that they are frost and UV resistant as the bowls will spend all their lives outside (ha ha) and so will encounter frost and sunshine!  I have had hard plastic trugs for water in the field in the past and they get brittle in the sun and break.  I also like that they are Phalate free - phalates have been found to cause health problems in people.

I like the integrated plastic handles so there is no chance of nasty injuries from metal detachable handles.


When I first presented the bowls to the horses they did look a bit shocked (Basil especially) but quite quickly discovered the tasty food inside.  They do slide around the floor more than the others but in some ways this is good as it makes the horses eat more slowly!  They are really easy to keep clean too and the handles are thin enough that I can carry 2 bowls in one hand (which I couldn't before).

So after about 6 weeks the bowls are all still in one piece, they have been trodden on and kicked about and Basil threw his over the door at the weekend.  The colours still cheer me up on a gloomy morning and the horses really don't care! PERFECT.

Have you seen my vlog channel Horse Life and Love
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You can also follow me on Facebook and Instagram for updates on Chesney, Basil, Fidget and Daisy.

Until next time!
Jo